Diadem Peak
3371m (11060ft.)

Located in the Sunwapta River Valley. Winston Churchill Range, Jasper Park, Alberta Major headwater Athabasca River.
Latitude 52; 19; 00 Longitude 117; 25; 35, Topo map 83C/06
Can be seen from Highway 93N

Named by J. Norman Collie in 1898. When Collie, Stutfield, and Woolley reached this summit they found that, a "'diadem (crown)' of snow proved to be about a hundred feet high, set on the nearly flat top of the rocks." Official name.

First ascended in 1898 by J. Norman Collie, H.E.M. Stutfield, H. WoolleyJournal reference AJ 19-461.

Photo: Looking northwest to Diadem Peak (left) and Mushroom Peak from the Icefields Parkway a few kilometres north of the Icefields Centre
More photos
Photo: Looking southwest to Diadem Peak from the Icefields Parkway at Diadem Creek

Climbing Routes
South-East Face (Normal Route) II
The original ascent party stayed on the rock that constitutes the SE ridge of the peak. However, repeating this line is not recommended since the rock is terrible. The snow slope to the left of the ridge is much more pleasant. The route is often combined with an ascent of Woolley. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 214

North Face, Humble Horse IV 5.7 W4
An excellent mixed route which everyone raves about. The climbing is never desperate yet it is only easy on some short 50-55 ice sections. Furthermore, the route finding is simple - just follow the obvious couloir from the bottom to the top of the face. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 214

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