Mount Schaffer
2692m (8832ft.)

Located at the head of Cataract Brook between Lake O'hara and Lake McArthur. Yoho Park, Major headwater Columbia River.
Latitude 51; 20; 10 Longitude 116; 19; 30, Topo map 82N/08

Named in 1909. Schaffer, Mary (Mary Schaffer was an enthusiatic explorer of the Canadian Rockies.) (see biog.) Official name.

First ascended in 1909 by M. Goddard, W.S. Richardson

Photo: Looking southwest to Mount Schaffer from the northeast on Wiwaxy Gap (courtesy Rob and Kathy Taerum)

Other Information
Photo: Mount Schaffer from Lake O'Hara (courtesy Rienk Lakeman)

Mount Schaffer and Schaffer Lake are located in the Lake O'hara area of Yoho National Park but Mary Schaffer has less of an association with this area than with Maligne Lake and the mountains that surround it.

On January 1, 1938 John Bulyea, Rex Gibson, and Robin Hind, three experienced mountaineers, were crossing a slope on Mount Schaffer when they were caught in a large avalanche. Gibson managed to ski out of danger and rescued Hind but Bulyea's body was not recovered until the spring. [Enchanted Banff and Lake Louise -Frank W. Anderson]


Jasper National Park was created in 1907 and it has been suggested that Mary Schaffer was the park's first tourist. But Mary was no ordinary tourist, she was the first non-native woman to travel through much of Banff and Jasper National Parks and as well was an accomplished artist, photographer, and writer.

A native of Pennsylvania, Mary's first trip to the Canadian Rockies was in 1889 when she accompanied a group of members of the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences. She was joined by a fellow art student, Mary Vaux, who was visiting Glacier House, the Canadian Pacific Railway's hotel in the Selkirks. Obviously an adventurous pair, they travelled part of the way on top of a boxcar. The following year she returned to the Selkirks, now the wife of Dr. Charles Schaffer, a physician with a driving interest in botany, whom she had met at Glacier House the previous year. Dr. Schaffer had a particular interest in the wildflowers of the mountains and he and Mary visited the Canadian Rockies every year until his untimely death in 1903.

But Mary returned to the mountains on her own the following year with her friend Mollie Adams. Guided by Tom Wilson and his associate Billy Warren, they explored the Yoho Valley and the Moraine Lake area. Returning again in 1905 and 1906 the ladies became more adventurous, travelling as far north as the Columbia Icefields, and they began to plan a major expedition for the 1907 season.

It was definitely not the norm for two ladies of the Victorian Age, in their mid-forties, to venture off into the mountain wilderness on a four month pack trip but these were not two traditional ladies. They had, over the years, become kindred spirits, re-enforcing the other's interests and determination. Their answer to those who said they should not go was, "Can the free air sully, can the birds teach us words we should not hear, can it be possible to see, in such a summer's outing, one sight as painful as the daily ones of poverty, degradation, and depravity of a great city?"

Their plan was to visit the headwaters of the Saskatchewan and Athabasca Rivers but they also hoped to reach a lake they had heard of which was called Chaba Imne (Beaver Lake) by the Stoney Indians. Later she revealed that, "our real objective was to delve into the heart of an untouched land, to turn the unthumbed pages of an unread book, and to learn daily those secrets which dear Mother Nature is so willing to tell to those who seek."

They reached the Athabasca and travelled upstream to Mount Columbia but an attempt to find the lake failed when they encountered heavy snow as the end of the season approached. During their return to the railway, Mary met a band of Stoneys and had dinner with them at the home of Elliot Barnes on the Kootenai Plains in the Saskatchewan River Valley. One of the Indians was Samson Beaver who, as a boy of fourteen, had visited the legendary lake with his father nearly twenty years ago. From memory, he sketched a map showing the route.

The winter was spent dreaming of the elusive lake which they acknowledged was, "a good excuse to be in the open, to follow the trail for the simple love of following it and explore places of which we knew nothing." With Samson's precious map in hand and Billy Warren and Sid Unwin as guides, the determined ladies set out from Lake Louise on June 8, 1908. Almost a month later they finally reached their lake, probably the first to see it since it was visited by Henry Macleod in 1875. Following several days of explorations and relaxing, the party spent five days attempting to push a trail through the thick, downed timber of the Maligne River Valley to the Athabasca. Finally they gave up and retraced their steps to reach the upper Athabasca. They then journeyed north-west as far as Tete Jaune Cache before returning to Lake Louise on September 20th.

Clearly, this was a remarkable trip for the two ladies and they were given much recognition for their efforts, although they in turn gave much of the credit to their guides. Mary Schaffer's book, "Old Indian Trails of the Canadian Rockies" was published in 1911 and is regarded as a classic. Although Jasper National Park existed, no one knew the lake was there before Mary's book.

Mary Schaffer continued to return to the Rockies each summer until 1912 when she decided to make her home among them and purchased a cottage in Banff. Three years later she and her long time guide and companion Billy Warren were married. Billy became a successful businessman in Banff.

There is no other location in the Canadian Rockies which is so closely identified with a single individual as Maligne Lake and its panorama is with Mary Schaffer.

Climbing Routes
North Ridge II 5.4
The N ridge of Schäffer is a popular climb for visitors staying in the Elizabeth Parker Hut. It offers a pleasant scramble requiring some simple rope work. A good introduction for beginners, with the standard no harder than 5.4 Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 144

The McArthur Horseshoe III 5.6
For those who have a distinct dislike for descending their ascent route and enjoy long ridge traverses then this may be just the ticket - Mt. Schäffer, Mt. Biddle and Park Mtn - an interesting traverse of the "horseshoe" surrounding Lake McArthur. The first ascent party ascended the N ridge of Biddle and went down the W ridge. However, it could be completed in the other direction just as readily. Most parties forgo the joys(?) of the Schäffer gendarmes for either an easy ascent to or descent from (dependent on the direction of your traverse) the col between Schaffer and Biddle. Not many people will hold it against you. The first ascent party took 16 hours round trip. It has probably been done more quickly but still plan on a long day. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 144

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