Mount Chephren
3266m (10716ft.)
Located in the Mistaya River Valley 4 km west of Waterfowl Lakes. Banff Park, Alberta Major headwater Saskatchewan River.
Latitude 51; 50; 30 Longitude 116; 40; 55, Topo map 82N/15
Panorama viewpoint: Bow Pass; Saskatchewan River Crossing. Can be seen from Highway 93N
Named by J. Monroe Thorington in 1918. Chephren, or Khafre, was the fourth pharaoh of the Fourth Dynasty of Egypt and built the second of the three Great Pyramids. Official name. Other names Pyramid Mountain , Black Pyramid
First ascended in 1913 by J.W.A. Hickson., guided by Edward Feuz jr.. Journal reference CAJ 6-94.
|
 |
Photo: Looking west across Lower Waterfowl Lake to Mount Chephren from the Icefields Parkway
More photos |
|
Scrambling Routes
Difficult for a short distance even if dry; ice axe suggested. Mount Chephren is a stunning eye-catcher situated along one of the world's most scenic drives, the Icefields Parkway. Mountains tower along both sides of this road, although most are not as accessible as this one. The summit view is unequalled, but the massive height and location of this pyramidal giant makes it a serious endeavour. To surmount the first cliff band, even the easiest spot will involve scrambling up steep, exposed terrain, but for fit, capable parties equipped with ice axes, this ascent is highly recommended. As a day trip, an alpine start by headlamp is suggested so that you can be well up the south-facing slopes before the full heat of the day hits. This is a mid to late summer ascent when, hopefully, the route will be snowfree. If it is not, both an ice axe and crampons will be required, raising it into the realm of a technical ascent, not merely a scramble. In favourable years, the steep grey-black cliffs and gullies on the south side should be free of snow and ice by late July or August. Other years it may never dry off completely and then it is best left to more technically-oriented climbers. Kane, Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies page 300
|
|
Climbing Routes
South Face/West Ridge (Normal Route) II
The Normal Route is a popular outing. No doubt the majestic nature of the mountain and the approach past the impressive walls of Howse Peak are part of the attraction. Expect a straightforward snow slope and some scrambling with nothing in the way of difficulty. Most parties take 6-8 hours for a round trip from the south end of Chephren Lake where most parties bivi. It has been completed in a day from the highway. Take your axe and crampons - the route may look snow free but don't be fooled.
Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 174
East Face V 5.9 A1
A long alpine rock climb that required 27 hours on the first ascent. It has since been climbed in 12 hours. A similar challenge to the NE Buttress of Howse though not as aesthetic. The crux of the route occurs in the upper third of the climb where you work your way through the summit rock bands. The route finding here is a little complex so take your time to sort it out. If things don't pan out as wished, a relatively straightforward escape from the upper part of the face is possible. Rock shoes are an asset. The first ascent party bivied on the face. Nowadays, the route can be done in a single day return trip by a competent team.
Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 175
The Wild Thing VI 5.9 A3 W4
The first ascent of this route took many attempts before it succumbed, mostly because of the persistence of Barry Blanchard who was on the route four times before the successful ascent. Expect very varied, difficult climbing up a direct line. The lower part of the route isn't particularly inspiring or difficult but the major rockband offers hard mixed climbing and the final ice vein running up towards the summit for five ropelengths is the type of climbing one dreams of finding. Certainly, the route is a winter/spring climb since the lower gullies would be all-star rockfall chutes in the summer months. Beware of avalanches - there is no escape from them in the lower two gullies! In the event of adverse conditions/weather near the top of the route it is possible to escape by traversing north along large snow ledges that separate the upper rock bands. These give access to a low-angled gully (it has been bum-slid!) at the north end of the face that leads almost back down to the bottom of the face. One rappel is needed to reach the ground. The first ascent required three nights out.
Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 176
|
|