Mount Bryce
3507m (11505ft.)

Located in the Bush River Valley between Bryce Creek and Rice Brook 3 km west of Thompson Pass. Park, Major headwater Columbia River.
Latitude 52; 02; 30 Longitude 117; 19; 40, Topo map 83C/03
Can be seen from Highway 93N

Named by J. Norman Collie in 1898. Bryce, Viscount James (Viscount Bryce was was a well-known British Statesman and President of the Alpine Club (London.) Official name.

First ascended in 1902 by James Outram, guided by Christian Kaufmann. Journal reference AJ 21-464.

Photo: Mount Bryce from the east (courtesy Alan Kane)
More photos

Other Information
Photo: Mount Bryce from the north on Castleguard Shoulder

A truly magnificent peak, Mount Bryce stands at the southern end of the Columbia Icefield.

James Outram, who together with Christian Kaufmann, completed the first ascent of Mount Bryce in 1902, wrote, "Projecting westward from the Continental watershed, the mountain rises in splendid isolation from a massive base to a long and extremely narrow ridge, crowned by overhanging cornices of snow, and culminating in three sharp peaks of increasing elevation in the direction of the ever deepening valleys, till the final, sudden precipice of the main summit looms almost vertically above the timbered slopes and foaming torrent of the Bush River, more than 8000 feet below. Its rugged flanks present a long expanse of rocky walls."

In "Pushing the Limits," his history of mountaineering in the Canadian Rockies, Chic Scott describes it as, "a complex peak with three summits, long and intricate ridges, and a north face rising 2000 metres above the Bush River."

Leopold Amery visited the area in 1929 and, accompanied by Edward Feuz jr., climbed to within 250 feet of the summit. In his book "In the Rain and the Sun" he wrote that, "Mount Bryce from the south is a truly imposing spectacle. A tremendous triangle, almost a steeple, of sheer rock, facing approximately sonth-west, soars into the sky. From it to right and left descend two curving curtain ridges, enfolding a glacier between them."

Climbing Routes
North-East Ridge - Bryce Traverse IV 5.6
A magnificent ridge route that everyone should climb. The positions on the ridge are superb, and the view of the west end of the Columbia Icefields cannot be matched. Often it is referred to as the Bryce Traverse since it crosses the central summit en route to the main summit. One of the best of its genre in the Rockies, comparable in difficulty to the E ridge of Mt. Temple, for example, but the remoteness of the mountain increases the feeling of adventure. Allow at least four days round trip from the Icefields Parkway and two days from the Bush River. Start from a bivi at the col below the ridge. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 202

North Face IV 5.7
A huge face rising over 2000 m above Bryce Creek. The route starts down below tree-line, has a rocky middle section and finishes with a long ice/snow slope that in itself is as large as the N face of Athabasca. It is technically very reasonable and is now, thanks to the Bush River logging roads, becoming a popular route. Before the logging road it was rarely climbed since it was quite an expedition to get in there, do the route and then get back out. It can now be done comfortably in a three-day round trip. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 202

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