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Mount
Mummery
(3328 m)
One
of the high peaks in the Mummery-Freshfield
Icefield area, Mount Mummery''s eastern slopes are
draped with ice that flows into the Blaeberry
Valley.
In
his book, "The Glittering Mountains of
Canada," J.
Monroe Thorington describes the view he
had of Mount Mummery while descending from Amiskwi
Pass to the Blaeberry as follows,
"one zigzags up a sidehill of open woods
whence an impressive view is had of Mount Mummery,
a white giant, rising across the valley into two
splendid peaks, above a curling green glacier
cleft by dark moraine lines."
Albert
F. Mummery was an inspiring figure to British
Climbers at the end of the Nineteenth Century. Frank
Smythe described him as a, “prince
among rock climbers, and the prototype of the
modern rock climber and mountaineer…. If the old
boiling-point thermometer and geological notebook
excuse for mountain climbing still prevailed in
certain quarters, Mummery killed it stone dead. He
climbed simply and solely for the fun of the
thing.”
Norman
Collie named in excess of thirty peaks
in the Canadian Rockies, but this one must have
been one of the most meaningful. Collie and
Mummery, together with Geoffery Hastings, climbed
together in the Alps in 1894 and the following
year in the Himalaya. They had been climbing for
over a month on August 23rd when Mummery set out
with two "Ghurkhas," Ragobir and Gomar
Singh, to cross Diama Pass near Mount Nanga Parbat
and perhaps make another attempt at the summit
that had eluded the party. Collie seems to have
been suffering from the many weeks at altitude and
according to a letter written by Mummery,
"was not keen on it."
Mummery
and the Ghurkhas were never seen again. It was not
until September 13th that Collie and Hastings set
out on a three day trip to reach the camp where
they had last seen their friend. However this late
in the season searching the high glaciers was out
of the question and according to Collie,
"Slowly we descended, and for the last time
looked on the great
mountain and the white snows where in some unknown
spot our friends lay buried."
-"Happily
for us, the great brown slabs bending over into
immeasurable space, the lines and curves of the
wind-moulded cornices, the delicate undulations of
fissured snow, are old and trusted friends, ever
luring us to fun and laughter and enabling us to
bid a study defiance to all the ills that time and
life oppose." -Albert F. Mummery
CLICK
ON THE PICTURE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT AND SEE
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS OF MOUNT
MUMMERY
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